If after that you will have more questions about another type of installation I will answer them for a discount price of 1.33 (0.33 is a Pay Pal fee for a transaction). General questions are for free!

When I found this website: www.diynetwork.com on the web, I thought OK I’m done, definitely I’m in a wrong business because my would be customers will go there and take all the information for free! But when I’m actually started to read what that “expert” suggested to do a big sigh of relive exited from my lungs!
So, let’s read this hogwash together and I will make some comments as we go:

1. The first thing you need to do is attach the takeoff to the main supply line. Mark the center point for the takeoff and drill a pilot hole using the cutting bit in the hole cutter. Preset the cutting tool to the correct diameter. Place the center guide in the pilot hole and start the cutting bit along the circumference of the hole. Use a right angle drill because you have to work in a tight space, but you can attach the cutting bit to any drill. The cutting bit then swivels around the center guide (figure E), forming a perfect circle.

Note: Sheet metal hole cutter and right angle drill are available at most rental centers or specialty stores.

I’m not aware if this tools are available "at most rental centers", rather not, but if it does you have to spend money on it. If not you can buy them easily at supply house. The cost of the hole cutter approximately $45 and right angle drill could be around $70! Congratulation with a big saving! At this point I would suggest hire a pro and save some money!

Expert Tip: When doing any heating or ventilating project, you may need to pull a permit, so check with your local municipality. In some cases, you may even need to hire a pro to help with this kind of project, so check on that as well.

Of course you may need to pull a permit! Next expert tip will be probably that you have to pull a permit before running a nail into the wall!

2. After the takeoff is in place, reach in and bend the tabs over (figure F) to secure it to the duct.

This guy actually doesn’t know the right way how to install a take off. Someone please tell him to contact me and for very small fee I’ll give him a run down!

3. Next, you need to install the ceiling register boot (figure G) so you will know how long to cut the supply duct. Center it between the joist and screw into place with self-taping screws.

Note: Use a power nut driver to drive self-tapping sheet metal screws.

I know it’s not a big deal but I never use screws for this matter, because they are sticking out too far and interfering with the drywall!

4. Measure the length you need for the supply duct. Take the measurement from about an inch inside the takeoff to about an inch into the boot collar.

The guy is completely out of touch with reality. He doesn’t know the right way how to make measurement. Beside that his measurement is wrong!

5. Cut the duct to length with a round duct cutter. You need to use a round duct cutter because the cutter actually removes a thin strip of metal along the cut line (figure H), which makes the cut a lot smoother. It is almost impossible to cut the metal with any other tool.

This guy is awesome! This tool actually designed to cut the duct which is already snapped together. But I never have seen that anyone in this business use this kind of tool. If this tool not in use it’s probably very expensive, so be ready to spend another $45, or hire a heating contractor and start saving money!
“It is almost impossible to cut the metal with any other tool” – I don’t know where this guy comes from! Maybe he won a competition among DIY-rs on this website, or maybe he just a boyfriend of the owner’s wife, but he definitely doesn’t know what he is talking about.

6. Snap the duct together. It has a special snap lock built in at the factory.
Well, sometimes it’s very easy to do, but sometimes it’s not, especially when you cut a piece of duct!

Safety Tip: Wear gloves and eye protection when working with sheet metal.

It’s funny but he comes up with this safety tip only after the sixth step, maybe he just lost an eye?

7. Install the damper into the duct by drilling a hole into the side of the duct and then screw the damper in place. The damper control indicator will show you whether the damper is open or closed (figure I).

The damper installation requires following of the special rules, otherwise it will make a lot of noise! But never mind listen to the expert!

Expert Tip: Dampers are critical for the efficiency of a forced air system. They allow you to adjust the amount of air flowing into each room balancing the system.

8. Put the crimped end in first, and then put the other end of the duct in. The takeoff rotates to make it easier to fit the duct into place.

“Put the other end of the duct in” – in what? The other end of this duct must be put on,  not in, but for the experts like this it’s very, very insignificant! And what he will do if the take off won't rotate?

Tip: Make sure the damper control is on the bottom of the duct.

9. Secure both ends with a few 1/2" sheet metal screws through the collar.

10. Add a couple of support brackets (figure J) to help support the weight of the duct.

11. Finally, attach the register to make it look a little nicer.

So after reading of all this crap I have a question: Why is he doing that? If anyone can tell me why I would really appreciate your opinion!

“Register Installation on Ceiling Tile” – This page gives a description of installation of a register on a ceiling tile. On this page you can see pictures of all necessary tools and materials and pictures of the system elements installed. There are 14 pictures on the page. All installation is divided into four steps which represent an entire project in the making.

"Cold Air Return from Inner Wall" – this page gives a description of installation of a cold air return on the inner wall which separate two rooms in finished basement. On this page you can see pictures of all necessary tools and materials and pictures of the system elements installed. There are 19 pictures on the page. All installation is divided into three steps which represent an entire project in the making.