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How to Install an Inline Duct Fan

Inline Duct Fan
Many people would like to be able to increase the airflow in their duct system, either to increase airflow, speed up heating and cooling, or to circulate air to damp places in the home.

• First of all, determine what size duct system you have in your home or office, and what type of duct work it is. Do you have a 4", 5", or 6" duct system? Is it a solid metal duct? Is it a flexible duct? Are there crimped sections that you can disconnect by taking off the duct-tape, or do screws hold the sections together. This is important because all of this, will determine what model duct fan to purchase - in different sizes and for different types of ducts for installation. Get this information first, then go and buy your duct fan.
• Next, determine where you want to install the fan within your duct work so that you can easily access it, and so that it is also located close to a circuit breaker protected power outlet (115-120 volts only - not 220). I recommend that you install your duct fan 6 - 10 feet from the register you wish to boost air to in order to reduce noise. Always leave your duct fan accessible for maintenance, cleaning or repair.
• Once you have accessed a good point in your duct system that is about 6-10 feet away from the register you want to boost your air-flow to and you have decided where to plug the fan in, we are going to install it.
• Depending on the duct system you have and the duct fan you purchased, the fan will have a template in the box for use to cut out the section of your duct for installation, or you can simply disconnect your duct work and directly connect it to your fan. I am not sure what type of duct work you are working on, so this is the step that you either cut out the ducting, or simply attach it to the fan. I will assume that you are working with rigid ducting (all metal) and will have to cut out your duct work to install your fan, because I did - so here is what you do. Tape the enclosed template to the duct with the arrow pointing in the direction of the airflow.
• Cut out the required opening in the ductwork that the template shows, by first drilling a pilot hole through the template and into the ductwork along the dotted line.
• We are not going to take our tin-snips and cut out the dotted lines. Cut it out completely and test the fit for your fan. Modify if needed.
• Take your duct fan out of the box, and place it into the opening of your duct work that you just cut out. Making sure that the fan blade can turn freely, by spinning it with your finger. Also be sure to align the arrow on the unit in the direction of the airflow in your ducts.
• Depending on the model you have, you now should only have to mount the fan in place it using the small steel screws provided with the fan, or a spring system that comes with the fan.
• Feed your wires out through the side of the opening, and tape them against the duct using your metal duct tape. We want to get to these easily when we wire up our fan.
• You should also now cover the seams of the fan in the duct with the metal duct tape to ensure that no air escapes in the hole you just cut.
• If you were lucky enough to be using a duct fan for flexible duct work, or are using a duct fan that just goes into the crimped section of your ductwork - simply tape the ducting to the fan with the metal duct tape, and screw the base plate of the fan into the duct work.
• Now we want to run power to the fan. You can splice a plug to your fan and plug it into a 115-120 volt outlet on your breaker protected circuit with a switch so you can turn the fan on and off, or you can plug the fan into a Duct stat Plug-In Line Voltage Thermostat system. I did this, and I recommend that you do it as well as it will regulate the fan, and works great! Read the directions that come with this unit.
• Turn on your unit and see how it works. You may see an increase in air-flow, but I personally feel that it is minimal. Hopefully it meets your needs. Be sure to clean your fan at least twice a year to keep dust and lint off of it.

Photovoltaic Systems


Photovoltaic (PV) systems incorporate solar electric collectors with power conversion equipment to supply electricity to the home.
Photovoltaic (PV) systems use solar electric panels to directly convert the sun's energy into electricity. This conversion of sunlight to electricity occurs without moving parts, is silent and pollution free in its operation. The solar electricity fed through electronic equipment is converted to utility grade electricity for use directly in the home. The solar electricity can be used to offset the need for purchased utility electricity or, if the PV electricity exceeds the home's requirements, the excess electricity can be sent back to the utility, typically for credit.
Different types of photovoltaic products are available today from numerous manufacturers. The supply of PV collectors worldwide has increased from 20 to 30 percent annually to keep up with the demand for this renewable energy technology. PV modules (or solar electric collectors) are different from solar thermal collectors (that convert the sun's energy into thermal (typically hot water) energy. Photovoltaic modules are usually rigid, rectangular devices ranging in size from 2’ by 4’ to as large as 4’ by 8’. Some PV module technologies are flexible and as large as 2’ by about 20’ or even larger. Rigid PV modules typically have a glass cover while the flexible modules have a very durable film cover. Both types of PV module construction have been rigorously tested to survive storm and hail damage and are resistant to degradation from ultra-violet rays.
Most residential PV systems are used in conjunction with utility-supplied power. Excess power produced during daylight hours can be fed back into the utility's lines, while utility electricity is used in the home when the house demand is greater than can be supplied by the PV roofing. Typical residential PV systems commonly have a peak power production of between 1,200 and 5,000 watts, AC - requiring from between 150 to over 1,000 square feet of installed area depending on the efficiency of the PV technology used.
Most often, PV panels are installed on roofs, but they can also be installed as free-standing units, on a pole on the ground, or even on complex tracking structures that change with the sun's angle during the day.
Installation
The efficiency of PV will depend on the maximum sun exposure, so the house location is important. Panel photovoltaic systems are ready to install and supplied by distributors. PV installations require a portion of the roof to be exposed to direct sunlight. Depending on the PV product, they can be installed by roofing professional, an electrician, or both. They must be wired to the house power supply by an electrician.
Benefits/Costs
Panel PV products provide environmental benefits because they do not produce pollution or carbon dioxide emissions like fossil fuel-based utility power. They are also more attractive than many other solar systems, which increases consumer acceptance. Unlike utility supplied power, once purchased, the cost of producing PV electricity remains constant over the life of the system since the only fuel used is sunlight.

Dollar Guide

This page is designed to help a homeowner with some simple issues that can arise in his/her DIY ductwork installation project.

Here is a list of the paid pages, which you can buy for the very low and I hope affordable price of only $1.00:

    • How to Measure, Cut and Put Together Rectangular Duct
    • How to Measure and Cut Pipe
    • How to Put Pipe Together
    • How to Crimp Pipe
    • How to Repair Hole in Ductwork
    • How to Install Galvanized Sheeting (Panning)
    • How to Make Ductwork End Cap
    • How to do Duct Elbow Adjustment?

    • How to Make a Pittsburgh Lock Seam with Hand Tools (new)
    • Cross Break Ductwork and Blockers with Hand Tools (new)

Coming up:

  • How to Make Transition from Your New Furnace to Old Plenum with Hand Tools (see below)

Instant Access: After you have purchased a paid access page; PayPal is going to bring you back to my website. In order to see the paid page you have to click on the “Register” button, fill out the form, choose your own Username and Password, click on the arrow at the top of the page, move the form up and click on the “Register” button at the bottom of the form – congratulation, you are now on the page you have paid for!

Important: After you have purchased any Paid page or Download page and PayPal brought you back to my website, the first thing that you should do is to save that page to your Favorites. Then if something goes wrong you always can come back to re-register yourself on my website again.

If you have another $1.00 question type it on this page and if you qualify, you can get an answer free of charge!


New! Buy any products from Amazon.com total value of $100.00 on my site and get any paid page up to $4.00 value free of charge! Got questions? Ask them here. Get more info here. (01/24/2012)


How to Measure, Cut and Put Together Rectangular Duct

 

On the page you can find a step-by-step guide that is supported by six pictures for only $1.00.

How to Install Galvanized Sheeting (Panning)

On the page you can find a step-by-step guide for only $1.00.

How to Make Ductwork End Cap

On the page you can find a step-by-step guide for only $1.00

How to Measure and Cut Pipe

On the page you can find step-by-step explanations with six pictures for only $1.00.

How to Put Pipe Together

On the page you can find a step-by-step guide that is supported by six pictures for only $1.00.

How to Crimp Pipe

On the page you can find step-by-step explanations with two pictures for only $1.00.

How to Repair Hole in Ductwork

There are many occasions when it is necessary to repair a hole in the sheet metal ductwork or plenum. If you decided to move a register, get rid of old leaking humidifier or relocate a heat run then the hole in the ductwork must be patched...

Price is only $1.00

How to do Duct Elbow Adjustment?

On the page you can learn how to adjust an elbow the right way for only $1.00.

Dollar Guide Bundle

In order to improve accessibility and reduce the price I've decided to combine all the eight paid pages above in one "Dollar Guide Bundle"! That means that from now on you are able to pay a new low price of only $3.50 (reg. $8.00) and get an instant access to all these pages one by one!

How to Make a Pittsburgh Lock Seam with Hand Tools                                                                                               
If you are making a transition for a new furnace, or adding just a couple of feet of rectangular duct you may need to learn this simple technique for only $1.00!

Cross Break Ductwork and Blockers

If you are making a transition for a new furnace or any other short piece of duct you may need to learn this simple technique!
Price is only $1.00.

Coming up:

How to Make Transition from Your New Furnace to Old Plenum with Hand Tools

If you are making a transition for a new furnace you may need to learn this simple technique!
Please let me know if you need a step-by-step guidance and I’ll make for you. And the price you already know!

 

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