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Window Film
Improve energy efficiency, reduce solar gain, and block ultraviolet radiation

The increasing usage of glass in today's homes is unmistakable. Besides the benefits, some of the side effects are glare, rapid fading of carpets, furniture and draperies, heat build up and higher energy costs. Manufacturers offer window films that improve energy efficiency, reduce solar gain and block ultraviolet radiation. The films allow a variety of applications, finishes and coatings for all types of glass.
The films are manufactured using a sputtering process, which applies metal alloys to the base film. The finished product is a laminate of polyester and metalized coatings bound by adhesives. Most of the sun's heat is transmitted in form of invisible infrared and ultraviolet radiation. The films are able to isolate and reject heat in these energy bands, while allowing visible light to pass through. The visual effect is soft-glare-corrected and color neutral. By applying the micro-thin film to the inside of glass windows and doors, the product can cut from 9 to 93 percent of the incoming light, eliminate up to 99 percent of harmful ultraviolet radiation to protect fabrics and finishes, and cut up to 76 percent of solar heat gain through the glass.
Installation
A scratch resistant film made by Courtaulds allows installation on both new and retrofit projects. The company claims that while not disrupting normal inside activities (work space: minimum of 3' in front of the windows) the film is applied within minutes with the aid of a surfactant, which activates the Clear Distortion Free adhesive system and then trimmed to size. Maintenance is recommended with mild cleaning solutions whereas ammonia-based cleaners should be avoided.
Benefits/Costs
Compared to conventional indoor solar protection and controlling devices such as shutters, shades or draperies the window films not only maintain the unobstructed window but are an effective and economical method of conserving glass energy loss and increase indoor comfort. Double and triple pane windows can also help reduce energy loss but may not be as effective, despite their higher cost.

Central Air Purification/Ventilation/ Dehumidification Systems
Strategy to promote occupant comfort and good IAQ

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and its Science Advisory Board report that indoor air pollution is among the top five environmental risks to public health. EPA studies show that levels of some indoor air pollutants can reach more than 100 times that of outdoor air pollutants. Indoor air pollutants such as dust mites, bacteria, and pollen come from almost everything in our homes including cleaning supplies, smoke, dust, molds, paint, carpets, drapes, upholstery, furnaces, gas burners, wood, and other building materials. Central air purification systems reduce the amounts of these particulates in indoor air.
Several companies now manufacture dehumidifying ventilators that provide fresh air induction that is filtered and dehumidified for residential applications. Typically, the equipment operates to provide fresh (outdoor) air when ventilation is needed through ductwork where it is mixed with indoor air drawn from the house and filtered prior to being delivered to the supply plenum of the central heating and cooling system. When only filtration is desired, dampers can be set to seal off the fresh air duct and some units simply re-circulate and filter indoor air. When dehumidification is needed, units can be set to operate at different humidity levels, treating either outdoor or indoor air, or both.
Dehumidification requires the use of energy, so, dependent on climate, it is sometimes more cost-effective to let the home’s central cooling system handle dehumidification during periods when both outdoor temperature and humidity are high. Dehumidification by ventilation and purification system is most useful when outdoor humidity is high, but temperatures are low enough to preclude cooling.
The dehumidification capability is unique to these systems. Other systems such as energy recovery ventilators transfer moisture between incoming and outgoing airstreams, but do not have a controlled dehumidification function.
Installation
It is recommended that an HVAC contractor or builder install the unit next to the air handler or in the attic. It can be installed on new or existing equipment.
Benefits/Costs
Ventilation systems can help to improve indoor air quality by diluting indoor air pollutants. The Therma-Stor system offers the benefits of tempering, de-humidifying, and filtering the outdoor air before it is delivered to the living space. The de-humidification capability is most advantageous in climates where there are frequent periods of high outdoor humidity, but not necessarily concurrent high temperature.

Solar-Powered Attic Fan
Ventilating is a breeze with solar-powered fans


Many manufacturers now offer solar powered attic fans to ventilate attics and help keep attics cooler. Solar powered fans rely on a small (typically 10- or 20-watt) solar panel to power a DC motor when the sun is shining. The fans, which exhaust air at a rate of 800 to 1200 cfm, are installed with intake vents (such as soffit and gable vents) to provide high-capacity powered ventilation without electric operating costs. Most vents are mounted high on the roof, near the ridge, and combined with soffit or gable vents for balanced intake and exhaust air streams. Solar powered gable ventilators are also available.
Installation
Units typically come fully assembled and are self-flashing. Installation is straightforward and most manufacturers offer clear installation instructions, often with diagrams and pictures. Powered attic vents are designed to be used in conjunction with sufficient intake air vents, such as soffit or gable vents. Units can typically be supplied and installed by a roofing trade contractor.
Benefits/Costs
Compared to powered vent fans, there is no need for electrical wiring, and a solar ventilator uses no electricity (hence avoiding operating cost). Although equipment costs are greater for solar powered attic fans than conventional powered fans (about $200 more), the cost to bring electrical wiring to the attic to supply a conventional ventilator closes the gap on installed cost.
Ventilation is only provided when there is ample sunshine to power the fan motor. The highest solar insolation (and, hence, fan speed) typically coincides with the time of greatest need for attic ventilation.
If there is inadequate attic intake air and poor sealing between the conditioned space of the home and the attic, powered attic fans can potentially draw air from the house into the attic. Not only can this compromise energy efficiency, it can increase the risk of attic moisture problems as well as increase the risk of drawing the byproducts of combustion into the house (a process called backdrafting).

NOISE REDUCTION

Furnace, ductwork, and the other elements of the heating and cooling system sometimes make many different kinds of noises. If you ask your Builder or a Heating Contractor for help to eliminate them, in most cases, the answer will be that these are very natural noises and you must live with them for the rest of your life. What they say it is not true! Do not trust them! Their goal is to sell a house and after a year forget about your even existence!

If you have correctly spotted the source of the noise, then you can eliminate most of the noises by yourself!

For some noises you can find help online, but for some of them not. Visit “Noise Reduction Search Results” page where you can see what kind of “help” you can find online!

I have great experience in resolving the following maintenance issues related to the elimination of the different kinds of noises such as:

  • Ticking noise
  • Pinging noise
  • Banging or Oil Canninig noise

The problem with the ticking noise exists almost in every house where there is furnace and ductwork installed in the basement or ductwork is reaching out from the attic to the first floor. Most of the people do not pay too much attention to this kind of noise because during the daytime there are many other noises in a house. Such as: people watching TV or listening radio, children running and screaming and so on. However, at night, everyone goes upstairs to sleep and they could be bothered by the ticking noise, but only if it is coming from the floor registers.
However, a real problem can occur if you are living in a ranch house or finishing your basement off. Then, you are going to be exposed to this issue for entire 100%!

I have been working in the field of ductwork installation already for 29 years. After a year of resolving ticking noise problems, I have discovered a very simple way of the complete ticking noise elimination!

This method works very well not only for the ductwork, but also for the PVC pipes, PVC Concentric cap on the outside of a house and copper pipes! I have tested it already many times and when, actually, any of you who would pay for this solution will find out how this should be done and you will understand right away that this method is working!
During the six last heating seasons many visitors of my website already used my method and so far, I did not get any bad feedbacks.

In the last heating season I see a huge increase in searches for this and other types of noises! About 60% of the visitors to my website have these problems in their houses! So, do not hesitate! I have a page where I have combined all possible cases of the ticking noise elimination, and you can find a solution to your issue there immediately. (See the "Instant Acess" on this page below).

Pinging noise is not such a mysterious one as a ticking noise, and almost every heating contractor knows how to deal with it. However, if you live in older house it's just ridiculous to hire a heating contractor to eliminate this noise when almost any of you can fix it by yourself.

Banging or Oil-caning noise is also very easy to eliminate, but the more important part is finding why your ductwork is making a noise like that in the first place! (See the "Instant Acess" on this page below).

Often people are having problem with the whistling noise coming from their cold air return registers. This kind of noise is also possible for any of you to eliminate by yourself.  

Ask you questions about Pinging and Whistling noises for the very low price of only $1.34 on the Question Page. Please use Buy Now button below.

Ticking Noise Elimination Page

It has been more then ten years since I have discovered the way how to fight the ticking noise issue including six years since I have started helping people on the web. So now, it was time when I put all my experience together on the one webpage. On this page you can find the following:

  • How to find a source of the ticking noise in your basement, wall, B-vent pipe chase or in the attic and how to quiet it down once and for all
  • How to cut a drywall if the source of the noise is behind it and how to fix drywall when it is done
  • What to do if the ticking noise is coming from the wall and how to eliminate it without cutting a drywall
  • What to do if your ductwork is making ticking noise in the attic
  • How to eliminate a ticking noise if it is coming from PVC or copper pipes inside and/or PVC concentric cap outside of your house

If after you have read on the page and you are still having a question or your case is not present on the page, you can type your question in the Feedback module on the page and send it to me free of charge.

Price for the instant access to the page is only $9.17! Just use the “Buy Now” button below.


Instant Access:

After you have purchased a paid page PayPal is going to bring you back to my website. In order to see the paid page you have to click on the “Register” button, fill out the form, choose your own Username and Password, click on the arrow at the top of the page, move the form up and click on the “Register” button at the bottom of the form – congratulation, you are now on the page you have paid for!

Important: After you have purchased any Paid page or Download page and PayPal brought you back to my website, the first thing you should do is to save that page to your Favorites. Then, if something goes wrong, you always can come back to re-register yourself on my website again.

Are you looking for a bargain?
Buy any products from Amazon.com total value of $250.00 on any page of my site and get the paid page above absolutely free!

If you cannot find any useful product(s) on my site find it on the Amazon.com website and email me a link to the page where your item(s) is located. I will post your item(s) on my site and you can purchase it there.
After Amazon.com notify me that your item(s) has been shipped I will open up the paid page for you. Usually it takes up to two days to complete.

Banging or Oil-Canning Noise Elimination Page

This page is dedicated to the banging (oil-canning) noise elimination issues. On this page, you can find the following:

  • How to find a source of the banging noise in your basement and how to quiet it down once and for all
  • What to do if your ductwork was wrongly designed or installed and this is a part of the banging noise issue
  • What to do if they used wrong jousts in your house and as a result you are experiencing an oil-canning noise

Price for the instant access to the page is only $4.95 ($4.50 + $0.45 - PayPal's fee)! Just use the “Buy Now” button below.

Instant Access:

After you have purchased a paid page, PayPal is going to bring you back to my website. In order to see the paid page you have to click on the “Register” button, fill out the form, choose your own Username and Password, click on the arrow at the top of the page, move the form up and click on the “Register” button at the bottom of the form – congratulation, you are now on the page you have paid for!

Important: After you have purchased any Paid page or Download page and PayPal brought you back to my website, the first thing that you should do is to save that page to your Favorites. Then, if something goes wrong, you always can come back to re-register yourself on my website again.

Purchase an instant access to the Ticking Noise Elimination and Banging or Oil Canning Noise Elimination pages and save!
Price for the instant access to the pages is only $10.62 ($10.00 + $0.62 - PayPal's fee)! Just use the “Buy Now” button below.

An Offer, I Hope, You Can't Resist!

It is amazing how many problems faulty heating and cooling equipment can make especially if it makes a lot of different kinds of noises! Also amazing how many words people can use to describe them.

Below you can see a list of noises and sounds people usually use to describe a noise that is coming from their furnaces, heat pumps, air conditioners and boilers:

Back peddling, banging, booming, buzzing noise, chattering, chirping, clacking, clanging, clicking, droning, explosion, grating, grinding, groaning, grumbling sound, gurgling, hammering, high pitched, high pitched whine, high pitched whistle, hissing, howling, humming, knocking, metal hitting metal, moaning noise, out of balance washing machine, plane engine, popping, pulsating, random, ratcheting, rattling, roaring, rumbling, scraping, screech, screeching, siren, sputtering, squeaky, squealing, switching, swoosh, thumping, ticking, tinny, train like, vibration, weird, whining, whirring, whooshing, wobbling, woof noises or sounds.

Some people have a hard time to describe what kind of noise coming from their units, for example:
Furnace is making a loud noise, awful furnace motor noise, furnace noise reduction, gas furnace noise like a slamming door that vibrates, heat pump making funny noise, when I turn on furnace sound strange, our boiler makes noises through the whole house and so on!
If you one of them, please carefully read through all lists of noises and try to find one that describes yours.

Currently, on my site, I have six pages dedicated to these kinds of issues and they are all made the same way:
At the top of the module, you can see a short list of noises. If you click on any word from the list, which in your opinion better describes your type of noise, the page is going to jump down and you can read the question and the answer to that question or feedback written by a person who asked that question in the first place.
If you cannot find the type of noise, you are looking for or if there are several questions with the same type of noise just scroll down to the next module or go to the next page.

List of the pages:

Furnace/Air Handler Noise
Furnace/Air Handler Noise 2
Furnace/Air Handler Noise 3
Heat Pump Noise
Heat Pump Noise 2
Boiler Noise
Boiler Noise 2
Boiler Noise 3
Air Conditioner Noise


Almost all information that you are able to read on the
pages above is taken from dozens of so-called forum websites. People were asking those questions, professional members were answering; people came back with additional information and so on. Sometimes all this process taking several pages, which in many cases was pretty much useless until the original poster gave up information how his case was resolved.
Therefore, if you would look at the
pages above you are definitely will find an ultimate solution to the problem described in any given question!

However, despite all my best effort, indeed, I was unable to find a solution to all possible cases and visitors of my site and I need your help!

So, here is a deal:
If you cannot find a solution to your problem on
any of the above page especially for the AC, go to a forum website and ask your question there. If you need a list of most reliable forum websites, email me on this page. Once your issue is resolved and you inform the forum how your issue was resolved, send me a link to your thread on that forum site and I will pay you $20.00!


Tags
Ticking heating vents, ticking sound out of floor register, "noisy ductwork" "expansion" "contraction, ceiling heat help clicking noises; cant sleep, main steel plenum (that the ducts branch off from) is popping and flexing with temperature changes, noises coming from duct work, noisy forced air ducts, sheet metal ducts ticking, ticking heating vents, what causes ductwork to make noise, fix oil-canning ductwork, how to get furnace ductwork to not bang and make noise, ticking noise when furnace operates, air duct bangs when furnace shuts off, how eliminate clicking coming from forced air returns, my air ducts keep ticking, ticking noise in house, why is my sheet metal from our furnace keep popping, +noisy +"concentric vent" +ping, heating duct ticking, ticking while furnace is on, weird noises coming from the floor vents in certain areas, how to 'trace" a bang coming from either my water heater or furnace, how to fix popping noise in duct, regular banging noise in house, will popping noise stop in metal duct when furance is on, bang noise in house, furnace bangs every time it shuts down, furnace bangs when starting, furnace vents pinging, ticking noise split system air conditioner, what causing clicking noise in heating duct, why do loud banging type noises come from my newly finished basement? wall furnace vent pipe knocking, loud banging and tinkering noise in walls reason, why metal vents tick, how to correct heating duct noise, bangs in the cold air return when furnace isn't on, furnace vent outside house ticking, Amana furnace noisy cold air return, stepping on my heating duct creates banging noise, duct popping noise at end of cycle, how to eliminate concentric furnace exhaust dripping sound, I always hear a loud bang in my basement,


All the keywords above were carefully selected from the list provided by Google Analytics. Selection represents only those questions answers to which are provided on this page. If for whatever reason you were unable to find an answer to your specific question, simply scroll up and take another look at it or contact me by sending an e-mail through the form on this page.
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