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On my website I'm offering very important step-by-step guidance's how to implement EST and what is even more...

Closing Supply and Return Registers Search Results Page

Every day more and more people are visiting this page...

Many of them want to save some money on their heating and cooling bills, but do not know how. They have reasonable thoughts that if they would close a few heats and cold air returns they will save some money on their utility bills!???...

Save Energy by Closing Cold Air Return Grill

As everybody knows the cold air sinks down, but the warm air rises up. For example in the summertime, when warm air fills your house to cool it down you have to run it through the A/C coil .

Tap Takeoff into Duct

In this chapter, I will explain how to tap a Take-off into existing duct and how to do a basement heat run. In order to cut a take-off in you have to:

Why in my house most of the returns are located by the exterior walls and the registers are located by the inside walls?

Because, you have the layout of gravity air furnace system. It was designed to move warm air to the living space by the buoyancy caused by the temperature difference between warm supply and cool return.
Though the engineers of the era 1920's, 30's and 40's, knew that perimeter heat was more comfortable e.g. warm water and steam heating of the same era, they also knew that the coldest air would help air flow through the furnace. So, you will find the supply or registers on the interior closer to the furnace and the returns to the outside where colder, heavier air would facilitate better air flow.

Save Energy by Closing Supply Registers

The basic idea behind this – you have to close supply vents in the rooms, which you do not use and it will conserve energy, and save money. I tried to do it in my house and I have discovered the fact that if I’m closing all vents which I’m thinking are unnecessary at the time I would spend even more energy than before. So, what do you have to do and how?

My idea, and after you read this chapter you can try it in your house, is.....

My house is a colonial with a furnace in the basement and the thermostat is located on the first floor. The furnace is 80000 BTU-s 90+ Carrier with 1200 cfm output. That means that the warmed-up air should be distributed by twelve 6” heat runs. However, in my house I have 19 heat runs on the first and second floors plus 4 in the finished basement, which ........ My house has:

  • Three bedrooms with two bathrooms upstairs and there are two heat runs in each bedroom and one heat run in every bathroom
  • On the first floor there is 11 heat runs
  • In the basement – 4

In order to save energy I am closing down .......

In addition, I keep all doors on the second floor ...... As a result.....

As you probably already figured it out it is kind of a big job: every day walk around your house and fool with the floor vents! No, not at all, I made covers from .......

However, here is one thing you have to take into consideration. I have built the HVAC system for my house by myself and I put some extra heats on the first and on the second floors. So, if you will try this energy saving tip in your house and it not gives you a reduction in the furnace’s cycle time or it will rise output temperature in your furnace you have to add one or two heat runs to the first floor.

How to Add a Heat Run

So, if you have tried to implement the Closing Supply Register tip and it did not give you any furnace cycle time reduction, or it’s significantly increased the temperature rise in your furnace then most likely you should add a heat run or two….

If you would like to read more, please use the “BuyNow” button below and you will gain an instant access to the first chapter of my Energy Saving Edition book dedicated to the energy conservation issues!

In the chapter you will learn how to save energy by closing some of the supply registers in your house, how to add a heat run if you don’t have enough heat runs whether it a “Straight shot” or a “Jumper”.

The chapter has 10 pages and 15 pictures in it. Price of the chapter is only $2.50.

Okay, all of the sudden here in southeast Michigan the summer is in the full swing again and I got a great opportunity for one more time to check out how my energy saving system is working!

Theorists on some Forum websites such as, for example, HVAC - were getting crazy while discussing these very simple techniques of improving efficiency of your heating system, but all their theoretical knowledge means nothing without practice!

Why was it such a failure, the answer is very simple: they were too lazy to check it out in their homes!

However for years I have this system installed in my house and I haven't had any problems to check it out one more time again!

During four days in a row, tirelessly, I was checking different layouts and found out that my Summer layout is the best one!

Why did it take that long to prove that actually my layout is working?
Well, when
  I come back from work every day it was already 4 pm and it took from 23 up to 50 minutes for every cycle to complete. My wife was cooking, and my son was running back and forth opening the doors into the garage or to the outside and eventually, I have discovered that my thermostat was not showing the right temperatures. So in order to resolve this issue I started to use my professional electronic thermometer. Nevertheless, no matter what I did my layout was better than any other.

In order to prove it I ran an AC in the four settings:

Original - This one was implemented when the HVAC system was designed. This layout originally was designed for AC mode and it's required minimal improvements on my part.

Winter - This kind of design is very common in the older houses and works great in the wintertime.
I have also improved it and it gives me that great saving which I just mentioned above.

Everything Open - This one is recommended by the HVAC - Talk gurus and at some point it was showing even worse results than the Winter's one!

Summer - This layout was designed by me to save some electricity and guess what it showed me the best results in comparison to the others!

In order to compare all these layouts I have used a stopwatch method. I believe that this method is the most reliable and easily comprehendible!

Of course, the Summer layout has its limitations. You can use it only during daytime hours or in the rooms, which are not currently in use, but no matter what energy saving is energy saving!

Also, during this testing period, I checked out the possibilities of improving temperatures differentials between rooms on the first and on the second floors. This one also is required an individual approach and I would recommend you to pay me first ($1.34) on this page if you are willing to discuss it with me.

For more info, please visit this page.

Instant Access:

After you have purchased a paid page; PayPal is going to bring you back to my website. In order to see the paid page you have to click on the “Register” button, fill out the form, choose your own Username and Password and click on the “Register” button at the bottom of the form – congratulation, you are on the page you have paid for! 

Important: After you have purchased any Paid page or Download page and PayPal brought you back to my website, the first thing that you should do is to save that page to your Favorites. Then if something goes wrong you always can come back to re-register yourself on my website again.

As economic situation isn’t improving so far, every day more and more people are visiting this page! Many of them want to save some money on their heating and cooling bills, but do not know how. They have reasonable thoughts that if they would close a few heats and cold air returns they will save some money on their utility bills.

So here is a question - Are they right or wrong on this issue? So let’s take a close look at it.
The most obvious answer is – They are right! Because if you would heat or cool only part of your house your HVAC system will work less and you can save!

On the second thought the answer is – They are wrong! Because your equipment is designed to move a certain amount of air and it will fail prematurely if you starve it for air!

Then here is another question – Why is it working for me, why am I able to save about 20% on my utility bill but it doesn’t work for others? Because I have designed and built the entire system of the ductwork in my house by myself!

But what can you do to save on your utility bill and down the road do not destroy your equipment? – You have to make some important changes to your ductwork system!

If you go to this page you will read some comments where people stand on the both ends of this issue. Some of them for and some of them against it, but unfortunately all of them wrong because their advices based on presumption that system of ductwork is something that can’t be touched and changed. Believe me it can be changed and you can do it!

Hundreds and hundreds of people are buying my books and many of them aren’t the professional installers. The vast majority of them are DIY-rs who do not afraid to install the entire system to their new houses, finish their basements, replace their furnaces or do their kitchen remodeling! And even you are not one of them you always can hire an HVAC Contractor, which will do this job for you.

However, from my experience I know that you still have some doubts if this would work for you!
So let me make this process for you as smooth as possible. Let’s divide it into three steps:

First step:
Send me an email from this page and describe what kind of house and what kind of equipment you have? Describe its location in your house; count how many heat runs and cold air returns you have and their locations. Is your basement finished or not and so on.
This step is free of charge and at the end I’ll tell you if you can improve your system of ductwork or not.

Second step:
For the price of only $1.34 (0.34 is a PayPal’s fee) I will explain WHAT should be done in order to save money on your heating/cooling bill.
After you pay $1.34, PayPal will send you to the page above where you can type your request and send it to me.

Third step:
If after my explanations you will purchase the chapters on this page above ($2.50) where you can find HOW it should be done, I’ll refund your $1.34.

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