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            | Furnace Change-out If it’s time to replace        your    old  and rusty furnace    you can get all the info you need   almost instantly in  the     chapter from    my  Ductwork Installation Guide book below! 
 During 30 years in   the ductwork and furnace         installation and replacement business I personally installed   and  replaced hundreds if        not  thousands of furnaces and in this  chapter   you can find       everything  you  can think of!
 
 The chapter is written for the basement furnace replacements  and covering:
 
 
                Replacement of the 50% to 60% eff. furnace with 80% eff. furnace 
Replacement of the 80% eff. furnace with 80% eff. furnace
Replacement of 90%+ eff. furnace with 90%+ (95%, 96%, 97%) eff. furnace
              If you are     replacing an 80%    or 50 % to 60% eff. furnace with   a 90%+, then  you may     need to purchase two    additional chapters from  my    Ductwork     Installation Guide book that are    covering PVC venting   and      condensate  lines installations. Both chapters    and much more   you     can  conveniently  find on this page. 
 Questions? Comments? Type them on this page.
 59. Furnace Change-out – the chapter is dedicated to the furnace replacement part of the trade and describes everything that an installer is suppose to know.
   The chapter has 72 pictures; 27 pages.
 Purchase this chapter at the discount price and save!   The price is only $11.98 (Instant Access)
 The Chapter has Links to:
 
                Furnace Replacement in Pictures 
International Code
 PDF files:
 
                A Guide to Residential Wood HeatingProper Subcooling Charging Techniques
             Installation of Gas Piping
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            | FURNACE, AIR HANDLER  NOISE 2List of Noises 5:   Chirping noise 1 Clicking noise 1
 Clicking noise 2
 Explosion sound 1
 Clacking noise 1
 Boom sound
 
 If your Atwood 8525-IV furnace makes loud bird  chirping     periodically, then you can disassemble the furnace until you  could     reach both ends of the fan motor. Remove the inlet side of the      "squirrel cage" and see if there is rust powder just below the motor      shaft. Squirt some oil it into the bearing, rotate the shaft and squirt      it a couple of more times, to make sure that you had saturated the     area.  Reassembled enough to get the fan to run and make sure that  chirp    was  gone.
 
 If you have clicking     in the gas  line whenever the furnace kicks on, then it could be the     outside meter  dial had gotten wet and was frozen. When the gas  turned    on (for example  when the furnace kicked on) the gear inside  the  meter   turned and the  outside one stayed immobile, causing a  clicking  noise. 
 
 If  your old furnace calls for heat, the pilot light turns on, but no hot  air, after the pilot light kicks on, it makes this clicking noise, like  the stove makes before it ignites, then you may need to replace the  whole pilot assembly.However, before doing that you can try to take  the assembly     out and use some sand paper to clean the metal strip that  the flame     'strikes' or comes into contact with. Because the bi-metal  surface     can't tell that there is actually a flame present it's doing two      things: 1) it keeps clicking, trying to establish a flame/pilot, and;      2) it's preventing the gas valve from opening, because if there was no      flame raw unburned gas would be flowing into your home.
 
              If  your Armstrong ultra sx80 furnace that has an electronic ignition  started making a loud explosion sound     upon lighting the burner. It could  as if the igniter isn't lighting     quickly enough and then after a second  or two it lights with a loud     boom (whoosh), then maybe the igniter has  become loose from its   bracket   and its position has shifted, so the  incoming gas does not   see it   until too much of a build-up in the  combustion chamber.Maybe also there is rust build-up at one of the  burners,     the one near the igniter and that is deflecting the gas, so  there is a     delay in igniting it. Low gas pressure could also cause this   problem   or  you may have delayed ignition.
 
 If you   noticed that when there is a call for heat, your Carrier Infinity   furnace goes through it's pre-cycle and before the igniter glows and   lights the flame and before the actual circulating fan kicks up to a   higher speed there is a noticeably loud clack, then it could be a throttling valve on the outlet side of a two-stage gas valve. 
 If your  furnace is making some terrifyingly loud booms within about 60-90  seconds, with ticking in between: tick...tick...tick....BOOM...tick...tick....tick...tick...BOOM... and then the blowers will kick in.Sometimes it only booms once, sometimes 3+ times. Then the  burners are dirty or out of alignment/pilot is dirty/gas pressure is  wrong. If it gets bad enough the flames will roll out the front of the  furnace and burn up all the wiring and do major damage.
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            | List of Noises 6: Boom soundClicking noise 3
 Clacking noise 2
 Chattering noise
 Ratcheting sound
 Groaning noise 2
 Hissing/screaming noise
 Horrid sound
 
 If   the pilot light on  your furnace going out and you have to relight it   about every 2 or 3  days, If sometimes when the heat is on, you may hear a   big boom sound from the furnace. Then  for some reason the pilot may not be close enough or   high enough to the  gas flow output on the burners to ignite the gas as   soon as the gas  valve opens the flow. The pilot is apparently strong   enough to keep  itself burning by the gas control valve. Maybe a draft   is blowing the  gas away from the pilot.
 Anything that will momentarily suck the gas  away from the   pilot flame like a small vent suction or a cracked heat  exchanger small   suction can give the gas time to build up. A dislocated  pilot tube is   another. That's all it takes to cause an explosion.
 A  few seconds later the "on" gas that did not light   immediately,  accumulated greatly, and finally found the pilot flame   then it make a  boom. That was an explosion and it blows out the pilot.   So if this is a  case you need an inspection of the pilot lighting or  it  could be rust  flakes on the burner clogging the gas output right at   the pilot area.  Vacuum the burner tops and area anyway. If you do  have a  lot of rust  make sure you inspect the burner chamber for cracks  and  leaks.
 
 
 If  your 1986 vintage   Rheem furnace when heat is called for, often it works  normally, but   often the gas valve will click, the pilot comes on  (electric spark   ignition), and the burner will fire, then the gas valve  starts clicking on and off, very fast, randomly (no cadence), and the unit will shut down. Or,  it starts clicking madly as soon as the pilot lights   and the burner  will not fire. Or some variation of this, but always the   gas valve is  clicking madly. Then if you do have a meter, take a   reading on R and W,  and see if that power is steady. If turns out it's   steady, then take a  reading as the gas valve, and see if power is   steady. If it's on and off  then it's the ignition control module. But   if the power is steady, then  it's the gas valve itself.
 
 
 If your gas valve is clacking and chattering,    also the furnace will fire up sometimes, and sometimes not, then it    might need to be cleaned out the burners and cleaned the flame rod.  
 If your Trane furnace makes annoying ratcheting    sound, then the chatter is being caused by feedback or voltage loss  in   the thermostat circuit and it could just be that when the  humidifier   engages it causes disruption in the voltage that engages  the chattering   relay.
 
              If your Comfortmaker furnace makes a loud 60 Hz hum startup noise, and it may varies in pitch as the motor groans    to spin up the blower (wa.....wa...wa..wa,wa,wa,wa). After a few    seconds, the noise disappears and the blower continues to spin up until    operating at full speed, then you may need to replace your motor with a    Balder motor that is twice the weight of the noisy motor.  
 If your Rheem air handler that has just recently started making an odd hissing/screaming   noise, then you may check out the bearings and if the fan isn’t kinda   wobbly. If this is the case, then your blower wheel might be out of   balance causing it to scrape the housing as it starts up. After running,   it straightens out and doesn’t scrape. If you are hearing a horrid sound coming  from your furnace – it sounds like a motor was going bad. If your unit  has a LED light on the control board that blinks a pattern to show what  is wrong with the unit and there are 3 blinks, which mean: "Pressure  switch failed to close."
 If you examine inducer motor closely - the  plastic wheel does spin the inside gear but it seems restricted/doesn't  spin as freely as it should, then you need a new inducer motor.
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            | List of Noises 7: 
 Banging noise Popping noise
 Rattling noise
 Squeaky noise
 Whirring noise
 Whistling noise – watch the video below
 Whoosh noise
 
 If your 30 years old wall furnace when it cycles off, it makes a series of banging     noises as it cools down, then that could very well be a cracked heat     exchanger. Wall furnaces are dirt-cheap, just buy a new one. 
                                                                                                                                                         If you have noticed that your  furnace    is making a whirring     noise: something like whir-whir-whir-whir and it does this from the     time it kicks on until it shuts off, then it could be the impeller on     the exhaust/inducer motor was broken making it unbalanced creating  the    noise. 
 
 If you turn a thermostat up and furnace clicks. Then at the actual heater is you hear a whirring motor come on. Then another click and igniter glows orange goes out and you hear the whoosh     sound of the burners lighting then they go out and the whirring  sound    stops. Then the whirring motor you hear is the draft inducer  fan, and    the glowing thing is the igniter. If the burners are  igniting and  then   going out right away, the most common cause of this  would be that  the   flame sensor rod needs cleaned. It is just a  little rod that  sticks out   into the flame, shut off power to your  furnace and gently  scrape or  sand  it, then turn the furnace back on  and you should be  good. If   a flame sensor needs  to be cleaned: It  looks like a piece clothes   hanger (as big around)  and is mounted on a  ceramic disk. It has 1 wire   coming out the  bottom. You can either try  to clean it with it in the   furnace or you  can remove the ¼" hex head  nut and remove it, and to   clean it you  will need an emery board or  finger nail file. All you need   to do is  remove the oxidation from the  sensor and reinstall it, and  turn  it  back on. 
 If when the thermostat calls furnace to turn off and the burner shuts off, there is a squeaky rattling noise.     It may sounds like it's coming from the heat exchanger area and not    the  blower, then it could be a new filter you put in is too thick and     there's not enough air flow so the motor is working harder, and   vibrates   due to the higher negative air pressure inside.  If your furnace is in a mobile home and it lights off ok, but starts popping     after 2 to 3 minutes then have your local licensed hvac repair guy     check this furnace out. Problem might be the high temperature limit     switch intermittently opening up the circuit then almost instantly     closing. This caused the burner to shut down then immediately relight.     Since this furnace may has a two stage gas valve, (low fire on start  up    then high fire on run mode). With the high limit cycling on, off,  on  in   less than two seconds the relight is rough, always in high  fire,   causing  the popping noise. Replacement high temperature limit  switch   may fix  the problem.
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            | List of Noises 8: Banging noise Clicking noise 4
 Grinding noise 1
 Growling/rattling noise
 High pitched sound
 Humming/whistling noise
 Rubbing sound
 Scraping noise
 Woof sound
 
 
 When your Nordyne gas furnace turned on it starts the  heating coil heats up and you may hear the clicking  sound for the  ignition. The ignition never happens and you may hear an  another  clicking sound following the heating coil shuts down and the  same  procedure continues for 4 times and then you can start seeing a  flashing  red (flashes 4 times), according to the information on the  back door  four flashes = Ignition Problem - Check Ground.  Then your  hot surface  ignitor does not get hot enough, it will not set off the  gas. You can  ohms test the coil across it's two wires, with a  volt-ohmmeter. It  should be about less than 100 ohms, to set off the  gas. Or, you could  have such dirty burners in the area of the glow coil  that, it can't set  off the gas in the 3 second safety allotment time.  
 If your furnace when the blower motor comes on  makes a  grinding  noise and blows the fuse, a grinding noise is usually the fan  being  loose or the bearings in the motor are defective. Depending upon  what  kind of noise it really is it could also be the start capacitor. 
 
 If  you have Miller oil furnace and the blower is making a scraping sound,  then it might be the screw that holds the cage to the motor shaft is  loose, just lock-tighten it. 
 If your  Armstrong high efficiency furnace is making a high pitched  sound – it  kind of sounds like locusts. In the fan only mode, there is  no sound,  then, to your knowledge, typically the inducer motors have  sealed  bearings. If the motor is squealing it is time for a new one.  Inducers  are usually sold as an entire assembly which makes it easier  to replace.
 
 If  you have an old  (25y.o.) GE model furnace and it refuses to stay lit.  The igniter will  ignite the gas, and then as soon as the spark goes out,  the gas shuts  down. Ends up sounding like woof,  woof, and woof, then  you should check the pilot orifice to make sure  it is completely open.  Just take the pilot apart and there are two  small holes, one of which  could be partially plugged. Ran chemical  cleaner thru it. 
 If  your furnace give a big bang  just before the heat comes on, then you  may call a gas company out to  check out if the burners are out of line  and not filling up with gas  evenly, so there could be an excess of gas  so when the burner came on  it is a small explosion each time.                                                                                        If you have a Carrier 58 PAV furnace  that is making a high pitched humming/whistling noise  that is coming  from the induction motor assembly. When the motor  assembly turns off, it  sounds like a jet engine powering down. Then you  can pull the lowest  drain tube the black rubber ones on the inducer  enclosure and see if  water comes out (more than a couple drops) if so  drain trap may be  clogged and preventing proper drainage making the  blower wheel become a  paddlewheel.
 
 
 If you have a Carrier 58PAV (12 yrs old) and it makes  growling/rattling noise  coming from somewhere in the inducer motor  assembly. A PAV is a mid  efficiency furnace with no drain hoses. You  need to replace both the  motor and wheel as it gets off balance. Be very  careful how you handle  those wheels as they bend very easy and get off  balance and will create  vibration and future noise.
 
 
 If your furnace when it starts up making a rubbing  sound. Then  three screws should hold the motor and squirrel so the fan  housing stays  in place. You'll have the motor and squirrel in hand.  There is an Allen  key or locking ring pinching the squirrel to shaft,  might need to pull  it up a bit on the shaft. Eye ball it, spin it both  ways so you know  it’s not the bearings.
 
 
 Is it time to replace your furnace? Fill out a Repair or Replace Report Card 1 | 2 | 3 |
 
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            | A website "ductworkinstallation. com" focus on  providing information and services related to the installation of ductwork systems , which are the tubes used to distribute heated or cooled air throughout a building as part of an HVAC system; essentially, it would be a platform for individuals or companies specializing in designing and installing ductwork for homes and commercial properties, offering details on the process, and potential contractors to contact for such services.  Key points about ductwork installation websites:  Services offered: New ductwork installation, ductwork repair, duct cleaning, duct sealing, airflow balancing.  Target audience: Homeowners looking to install a new HVAC system, individuals experiencing issues with their existing ductwork, commercial property owners needing ductwork for large buildings.  Information provided: Explanations on different types of duct materials, design considerations for optimal airflow, potential benefits of proper ductwork installation.  |  
 
	
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