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Interior Storm Windows
Increase energy efficiency and maintain exterior aesthetics
Homeowners are usually interested in lowering energy expenses, but are not always willing to pay large costs or sacrifice the appearance of their home to do so. Interior storm windows provide a compromise by increasing the energy performance of a home at significant cost savings over window replacement. They are particularly suited to historic and other homes where it is desirable to retain the original windows or to improve efficiency without altering the home’s exterior appearance. In addition to energy benefits, interior storm windows can improve sound resistance, decrease window condensation, and reduce degradation to furnishings from ultraviolet (UV) light.
Tight-fitting interior storm windows can reduce drafts, thereby improving comfort. By creating airspace between the interior and exterior windows, they also improve the insulating value of the window assembly and raise the interior window temperature (hence also improving comfort in addition to reducing energy bills). One field study of interior storm windows at three Florida residences reported heating and cooling energy savings of 29 percent and noticeably reduced interior window condensation.
Interior storm windows can function in place, year-round, or can be removed from windows for ventilation during milder weather. They can also be customized to fit any size rectangular window and some manufacturers advertise the ability to fit a variety of geometric shaped windows. Interior storm windows generally have mounting brackets made of vinyl or metal those are permanently fastened to one or more sides of the interior window frame, and detachable glass or acrylic panes. The transparent pane commonly incorporates a magnetic strip for easy attachment to the bracket. Panes are also available in low-E glazing to resist heat gain and in UV-resistant glazing to reduce UV damage to interior furnishings.
Interior storm windows must be removed for natural ventilation. Interior storm windows with acrylic or polycarbonate glazing need extra care to prevent scratching or clouding. The seal around the perimeter of the interior storm window must be maintained for effective sound and thermal insulation. A magnetic seal may deteriorate over time and allow condensation to form on the interior surface of the storm window
Installation
Interior storm window installation varies by manufacturer, but most can be mounted on the inside of window jambs or flush to the window molding. They are also capable of being mounted on flat or angled surfaces, and can be customized at the factory. Authorized dealers or contractors may be needed to install some interior storm windows. Some producers sell kits to contractors and homeowners for self-installation.
Benefits/Costs
Interior storm windows can be used in historic homes, because they have little effect on interior or exterior architecture. Interior storm windows can reduce drafts and increase the overall thermal insulation of the window, providing energy savings during heating and cooling seasons. Interior storm windows can also reduce exterior sound transmission through windows. Many manufacturers offer interior storm windows with UV protection, which reduces the amount of UV rays transmitted through the windows. Storm windows mounted on the interior can reduce condensation on windows during cold weather by raising the temperature of the interior glass.
Interior storm window "do-it-yourself kits" sell for as little as $55 for a 60"x 30" window. However, larger custom windows can sell for more than $200 installed.
HVAC Equipment and Duct Installation within Conditioned Space
Installing HVAC within conditioned space improves energy efficiency, comfort, and health
Heating, Ventilating and Air Conditioning (HVAC) equipment and associated ductwork, are often placed in crawlspaces, attics, and garages. However, there is an opportunity to improve energy efficiency, comfort, and health by instead placing HVAC equipment and ductwork inside the insulated, air-sealed shell of the house, known as conditioned space.
While new houses may have wall and ceiling insulation levels of R-15 to R-30 or more, ductwork outside conditioned space is typically insulated with R-4 to R-6 insulation. Ductwork and equipment cabinets are also frequently very leaky, drawing in outside air and/or blowing out air that has been heated or cooled. Research on ductwork located outside of conditioned space indicates that between 20 and 35 percent of the energy supplied is lost through a combination of air leakage and conduction. Ductwork and equipment in these areas may also pull in potentially unhealthy air from crawl spaces and attics. Heated or cooled air that mixes with outside air due to leaky ductwork is delivered to rooms at lower or higher temperatures than otherwise, potentially resulting in reduced comfort.
Benefits/Costs
A benefit of placing HVAC equipment and ductwork within conditioned space is improved energy efficiency. Reduced heating and cooling costs may be on the order of 20 to 35 percent, or up to $200 per year for the average home. Improved comfort is also likely. Health may be improved, as potentially irritating or harmful dust, pollen, moisture, and radon are not pulled into the house through leaky ducts, especially those in crawlspaces. Initial equipment costs may be reduced because system heating and/or cooling capacity, and ducts themselves, can be downsized. Material and installation costs for duct insulation can be avoided. In some cases, costs for air sealing ducts can be reduced or avoided.
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Save Energy by Closing Supply Registers
Heat Runs
The basic idea behind this is: you have to close supply vents in the rooms which you don’t use and it will save you energy and money. .......
If you would like to read more, please use the “BuyNow” button below and you will gain an in instant access to the first chapter of my Energy Saving Edition book dedicated to the energy conservation issues!
In the chapter you will learn how to save energy by closing some of the supply registers in your house, how to add a heat run if you don’t have enough heat runs whether it a “Straight shot” or a “Jumper”.
The chapter has 9 pages and 12 pictures in it. Price of the chapter is only $2.50.
Okay, all of the sudden here in southeast Michigan the summer in the full swing again and I got a great opportunity one more time to check out how my energy saving system is working!
Theorists on some Forum websites such as, for example, HVAC - Talk.com were getting crazy while discussing these very simple techniques of improving efficiency of your heating system, but all their theoretical knowledge means nothing without practice!
Why it was such a failure, the answer is very simple: they were too lazy to check it out in their homes!
However for years I have this system installed in my house and I haven't any problems to check it out one more time again!
During four days in a row, tirelessly, I was checking different layouts and found out that my Summer layout is the best one!
Why did it take that long to prove that actually my layout is working?
Well, when every day I come back from work it was already 4 pm and it took from 23 up to 50 minutes for every cycle to complete. My wife was cooking, and my son was running back and forth opening the doors into garage or to the outside and eventually, I have discovered that my thermostat was not showing right temperatures. So in order to resolve this issue I started to use my professional electronic thermometer. Nevertheless, no matter what I did my layout was better than any other.
In order to prove it I ran AC in the four settings:
Original - This one was implemented when the HVAC system was designed. This layout originally was designed for AC mode and it's required minimal improvements on my part.
Winter - This kind of design is very common in the older houses and working great in the wintertime.
I have also improved it and it gives me that great saving which I just mentioned above.
Everything Open - This one is recommended by the HVAC - Talk gurus and at some point it was showing even worse results than the Winter's one!
Summer - This layout was designed by me to save some electricity and guess what it show me the best results in comparison to the others!
In order to compare all these layouts I have used a stopwatch method. I believe that this method is the most reliable and easily comprehendible!
Of course, the Summer layout has its limitations. You can use it only during daytime hours or in the rooms, which are not currently in use, but no matter what energy saving is energy saving and I would recommend you to ask me first before you buy if my system would be actually working in your house. Please submit your questions on this page.
Also, during this tasting period, I checked out possibilities of improving temperatures differentials between rooms on the first and on the second floors. This one also is require an individual approach and I would recommend you to pay me first ($1.34) on this page if you are willing to discuss it with me.
05/29/2010
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