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Monday, February 06, 2012 ..:: Energy Saving » Closing Cold Air Return Grill ::.. Register  Login

Insulated Vinyl Siding
Foam insulated vinyl siding systems that provide thermal insulation benefits
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Progressive Foam Technologies, Inc. makes contoured foam underlayment under the brand name "Thermowall". The material is shaped to precisely fit behind nearly any manufacturer's siding profile sold in the United States. Installed over exterior walls just before placement of the siding, the underlayment provides a continuous solid backing that helps vinyl siding resist impacts that might otherwise cause cracks or dents. By adding an additional foam insulation layer, the R-values of exterior walls are increased by R-2.8 to 3.3, depending on the profile, not including the vinyl siding. The manufacturer states that the foam is made from environmentally benign expanded polystyrene (EPS), which has thermal expansion properties nearly identical to vinyl siding, and moderate vapor permeability to allow the siding to breathe.
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Placement Cold Air Returns
There can be no intelligent discussion about return placement without a comprehensive understanding of how both supply and return provisions affect air distribution and circulation within the conditioned space.
Nor can the conversation demonstrate intelligence regarding "cold floors" if factoring in building envelope infiltration is ignored.
A return opening may have a small sphere of influence around it. However, whatever air velocity it achieves will entrain surrounding air. The main, and very significant, difference is the rate of velocity. Returns do not have a focused air velocity, as do supplies, which emit a jet of air. The supply air jet will entrain far more air within a room, due to velocity and temperature difference. The return is drawing mixed air from a limited sphere of influence, and this air has little to no temperature difference between it and surrounding air.
The information in the Hart & Cooley document is correct. Air cannot be introduced into a room without adequate provision for an exit. It is also correct in recommending supply and return placement in accordance with the primary climatic demand; i.e. primarily a heating or cooling climate.
One other factor to consider is the physical layout of the conditioned space. High ceiling spaces will always be difficult to control, and usually require greater air exchange for an equivalent amount of floor area due to the increased volume (cubic feet) of the space. If I had my way, "green building" architecture would outlaw high ceiling interiors. We need not be confined to the old eight foot standard, but a feeling of loftiness can be had with far shorter ceiling heights than is common in our time.
Supply register placement
Windows are a source of heat gain in summer, particularly single pane windows with aluminum frames. Next hot day, with the house nice and cool, if you have single pane aluminum frame jobs in your home, stand by a window, even a shaded one. You can feel the heat on your face and skin. That's radiant heat. The hot air outdoors is heating the glass surface and the window frame...hot flows toward cold (greater heat to less heat). There will be heat transfer, and it will affect the temperature of the room where the window is.
Anyone who has ever run a heat load calculation on an average American house knows where the greatest heat gains are in summer; windows, doors, and infiltration. Ceilings adjacent to attics typically come in next, with walls close behind. In winter, heat loss is greatest via windows, infiltration/exhilaration (stack effect) and then the rest.
In my opinion, supply register placement should be a combination of the dynamics of the room, and the type of climate the house is built in. Primarily a heating climate, favor the walls/windows exposed to outdoors. Primarily a cooling climate, favor interior locations with the supply air stream aimed toward walls/windows exposed to outdoors, "washing" these surfaces with cool supply air to offset heat gain (or at least assist in getting the heat back to the a/c coil more quickly, so it can be removed again from the house). Round ceiling diffusers also work well in a cooling climate, but not as well when needed for heat in winter.
Purpose of a house is shelter
Obviously the delta between shaded 105 degree air on the outside of a single pane of glass and 75 degree indoor air isn't as great as mid to late afternoon sunlight beating on this same piece of glass with the same air temperature outdoors. Allowing direct sunlight to enter a house during hot weather is just asking for trouble, even with better windows. I suppose my point is that if more thought from an architectural standpoint was given toward shading windows and doors, the structure itself can help reduce heat gain to the interior. I find it patently ridiculous, from an architectural standpoint, that so much of our housing stock is architecturally poor for the climate in which it resides. On one side you have architects and builders stuck in the "form follows function" school, and on the other "function follows form". The minority appears to be "form and function as one".
The primary purpose of a house is shelter. In our time the word shelter carries far more weight than a log cabin of years ago. Back then it was to get protection from the cold and keep from being eaten by large animals or bitten to death by bugs. Now, those elements remain, but added to that are security, summer comfort, indoor air quality, and respite from a hectic world. Many modern houses can achieve these things, but they do so with high energy consumption, which works against a sense of shelter due to high operating costs.
So, we're stuck with a large housing stock, architecturally wrong for most climates, requiring remedies to keep from driving the occupants to the poorhouse. What to do? Insulate, better windows and doors, reduce infiltration, more exterior shading when possible, higher efficiency HVAC equipment that is properly installed and balanced. Do we do all those things every time an existing house is eating the owner's wallet alive? Not always. It's either thrown more equipment at the structure, or makes the structure an airtight coffin that is unhealthy to live in. A balance is in order.

Save Energy by Closing Cold Air Return Grills

This chapter from my Ductwork Installation Guide Energy Saving Edition book designed to help a homeowner to save some money on their energy bills. In the wintertime, you will save on natural gas and electricity and in the summertime, you will save on the electrical bill!

Here is nothing new in the notion of closing return and supply registers, only reason why I am selling it on my website is because nobody will tell you how exactly to do it and not to roast you HVAC system, but I found a different approach on how to do it and I want to share it with you!

In this chapter
you can find the following:

  • How to save energy by closing cold air returns
  • How to add low returns, if you have only high ones
  • How to add a cold air return if you do not have enough cold air returns in your house

However, this chapter will explain all the above for the house with HVAC system in the basement, if your HVAC system is in the attic you also may use it, but I do not have pictures to support my step-by-step explanations! If any of my customers will supply me with some pictures I'll refund his/her money!
You can buy this chapter for the very low price of only $3.00! In order to pay please use a Buy Now button below. 

For more info, please visit this page


Instant Access:

After you have purchased a paid page; PayPal is going to bring you back to my website. In order to see the paid page you have to click on the “Register” button, fill out the form, choose your own Username and Password, click on the arrow at the top of the page, move the form up and click on the “Register” button at the bottom of the form – congratulation, you are now on the page you have paid for!

Important: After you have purchased any Paid page or Download page and PayPal brought you back to my website, the first thing that you should do is to save that page to your Favorites. Then if something goes wrong you always can come back to re-register yourself on my website again.

As economic situation isn’t improving so far, every day more and more people are visiting this page! Many of them want to save some money on their heating and cooling bills, but do not know how. They have reasonable thoughts that if they would close a few heats and cold air returns they will save some money on their utility bills.
So here is a question - Are they right or wrong on this issue? So let’s take a close look at it.
The most obvious answer is – They are right! Because if you would heat or cool only part of your house your HVAC system will work less and you can save!

On the second thought the answer is – They are wrong! Because your equipment is designed to move a certain amount of air and it will fail prematurely if you starve it for air!

Then here is another question – Why is it working for me, why am I able to save about 20% on my utility bill but it doesn’t work for others? Because I have designed and built the entire system of the ductwork in my house by myself!
But what can you do to save on your utility bill and down the road do not destroy your equipment? – You have to make some important changes to your ductwork system!

If you go to this page you will read some comments where people stand on the both ends of this issue. Some of them for and some of them against it, but unfortunately all of them wrong because their advices based on presumption that system of ductwork is something that can’t be touched and changed. Believe me it can be changed and you can do it!

Hundreds and hundreds of people are buying my books and many of them aren’t the professional installers. The vast majority of them are DIY-rs who do not afraid to install the entire system to their new houses, finish their basements, replace their furnaces or do their kitchen remodeling! And even you are not one of them you always can hire an HVAC Contractor, which will do this job for you.

However, from my experience I know that you still have some doubts if this will work for you!
So let me make this process for you as smooth as possible. Let’s divide it into three steps:

First step:
Send me an email from this page and describe what kind of house and what kind of equipment do you have? Describe its location in your house; count how many heat runs and cold air returns you have and their locations. Is your basement finished or not and so on.
This step is free of charge and at the end I’ll tell you if you can improve your system of ductwork or not.

Second step:
For the price of only $1.34 (0.34 is a PayPal’s fee) I will explain WHAT should be done in order to save money on your heating/cooling bill.
After you pay $1.34, PayPal will send you to the page above where you can type your request and send it to me.

Third step:
If after my explanations you will purchase the chapters on this page ($4.43) where you can find HOW it should be done, I’ll refund your $1.34.

Tags
install an additional return air, how to relocate a cold air vent in a house,

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