How to Select HVAC Company
It needs to be realized that there are both professional HVAC companies and fly-by-night companies or individuals, as there are in many other professions. Since the average HVAC job will be installed and used for many, many years, it behooves the prudent shopper to acquaint himself or herself with some basic methods that can greatly reduce the potential to end up paying thousands of dollars for what could end up being at least an uncomfortable system and at worst an unsafe, even life threatening system. Below are some suggestions on how to choose a highly qualified company, as well as some editorial information about each of these suggestions.
1. Using the media of choice, go right down the list of each HVAC company and telephone them. Your goal is to ask just one basic question, the answer to which produces significant information about the company. The question to ask is,
“How would your company determine the size of the (heating or cooling) equipment for my house?”
There is only one correct answer to this question. (ed. The DOE and every major product manufacturer all recommend the same method. How the company answers this question therefore tells you whether they follow federal government and manufacturer ‘best practices’ or not. Those that do are far more likely to deliver a properly sized system or equipment to the job. Improperly sized equipment can lead to discomfort, short cycling, higher energy costs and shorter equipment life. Therefore, there is a definite value to selecting a company that answers this one question properly.
Acceptable answers: “By Manual ‘J’ calculation”; “By an engineering analysis”, “By a room-by-room load analysis”; “By measuring and calculating the load for each room”; “By ACCA (Air Conditioning Contractors Association) software”; “By using a computer design” or similar methods that specify an actual mathematical calculation based on solid science.
These companies have spent the time to educate their sales, installation and service staffs. The mere fact that they know how to do the sizing correctly tells you that they care about their reputation and your comfort. The education and materials needed to do the job correctly are a represent a substantial investment in both their business and your comfort. Do not expect any company of this caliber to cheap. In fact, the added value they bring to the table will likely put their quote substantially above a company that guesses at sizes. But wouldn’t you rather know what you’re getting than to have someone guess at the size and gamble several thousand dollars that they guessed correctly with your money?
Unacceptable answers: “By square footage”; “By looking at the size of the existing equipment”; “I’ve got XX years in the business and know how big it needs to be”; “By years or experience”; “By the thousands of units I’ve installed over the years” or variations thereof that say “I guess at the size”.
These are the companies that know only one thing. That is, how to cut corners to the point that they are the low bidder on a job. The first corner to be cut is the time it takes to measure the entire house, room-by-room, window-by-window, check the insulation, determine construction techniques and calculate the actual heat gain or loss of the house and each individual room. If they measure at all, they use a multiplier “rule of thumb” to determine the size of the equipment. They may be right or wrong. It’s your gamble as to which. After all it’s your money right, not theirs? Obviously if they’ll cut that very first corner that you should know they’re cutting, can you just imagine what corners will be cut in areas where you have no knowledge?
2. When you’ve found a company or two that will answer question #1 correctly, invite them into your home and enjoy the presentation. A good company will spend as much time as is needed to make you totally comfortable with the process of what’s happening, why it needs to happen and what you should expect to follow. Comfort comes in many guises and your emotional comfort with the process is paramount to a good company. Please do not be offended when they ask to have all the people involved in the decision present. There’s a huge amount of information to be digested, all of it representing added value this company will bring to the table. To expect one person to relate it all to another is just not going to happen. So please have everyone present who needs to be there. Opinions can vary, questions will arise. All of these issues need to be addressed to everyone’s satisfaction.
3. Once the size of the equipment has been determined (do not expect the sales person to share the equipment size with you until after an agreement has been signed. They’ve been burned too many times by customers who get them out to determine the size of the equipment and then use that information to get a lower price. In the end, the client gets the right size but a hundred other corners were cut, leaving the homeowner once again, cheated) you should expect the duct system to be designed according to Manual ‘D’. That is the ACCA method of designing a duct system that will deliver the proper airflow without excessive noise. It’s important to note that the ducts can’t be sized until the equipment is properly sized. That once again would lead us back to the importance of that question you’ll be asking in item #1.
4. Finally, after the equipment and ducts are properly sized (or in the case of ducts, reviewed as to current condition and sizing) it’s time to select the equipment itself. Brand is not normally very important and many companies can offer more than one brand. All manufacturers have both successes and failures of equipment most importantly based on the installing company. Once again, the installation company that follows the proper procedures will deliver the anticipated result to you. If corners are cut, you can expect discomfort and problems.
Sizing Heating and Cooling Systems
Older space conditioning systems (more than 10 years old) are often unreliable and much less efficient than a modern system. When it's time for a new replacement, choosing one of the correct size (heating and/or cooling output) is critical to getting the best efficiency, comfort, and lowest maintenance and operating costs over the life of the new system. Some national surveys have determined that well over half of all HVAC contractors do not size heating and cooling systems correctly.
The most common sizing mistake is in oversizing. This not only makes the new system more expensive to install, but also forces it to operate inefficiently, break down more often, and cost more to operate. Oversized heating equipment also often creates uncomfortable and large temperature swings in the house. Oversized air conditioners (and heat pumps) do not run long enough to dehumidify the air, which results in the "clammy" feeling and unhealthy mold growth in many air-conditioned houses (see dehumidifying heat pipes as one solution to this problem).
Incorrect Sizing Methods
It is the installer/contractor's job to perform the correct sizing calculation for the building. However, many installers only check the "nameplate" (the label on the unit that has the Btu per hour output among other things) of the existing system and sell you one just like it, or even worse, one that's larger. This is a not a correct sizing method and not in your best interests! Other methods include simple "rules of thumb" based on the size of your home or using a chart that accounts for a variety of factors. While these methods might provide a first estimate, they should not be used to size your system.
Why Most Older Systems are Oversized
Before the era of tightly constructed homes, it was not uncommon to install furnaces and air conditioners that had two to four times the necessary capacity. Since many people have added new windows, caulking, weather-stripping, and insulation to their homes, going by the nameplate is likely to result in an oversized system. Making improvements such as these to reduce heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer should allow you to install smaller systems while still being comfortable, as well as saving large amounts of energy.
Manual J and Manual D: The Correct Way to Size a System
Correct system sizing requires considering many factors other than simply reading the nameplate of the existing unit. Key factors for correctly sizing a heating and cooling system include the following:
* The local climate
* Size, shape, and orientation of the house
* Insulation levels
* Window area, location, and type
* Air infiltration rates
* The number and ages of occupants
* Occupant comfort preferences
* The types and efficiencies of lights and major home appliances (which give off heat).
Homeowners should insist that contractors use a correct sizing calculation before signing a contract. This service is often offered at little or no cost to homeowners by gas and electric utilities, major heating equipment manufacturers, and conscientious heating and air conditioning contractors. Manual J, "Residential Load Calculation," published by the Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA), is the recommended method for use in the United States. There are also many user-friendly computer software packages or worksheets that can simplify the calculation procedure. You should make sure that the procedure used by the contractor follows Manual J.
If ducts are part of the installation, they should be sized using the ACCA's Manual D, "Residential Duct Design." The ACCA also offers a comprehensive guide for choosing home heating and cooling systems, called Manual S, "Residential Equipment Selection."
A Special Case: Sizing Steam Heating Systems
One exception to the above is in steam heating systems. For these systems, the boiler should be sized to match the radiators. However, there is still room for energy savings. First of all, the original boiler may be oversized for the radiators, so the contractor shouldn't just order the same capacity boiler, but instead should match the boiler to the radiators. Second, if you've increased the energy efficiency of your home, it may have more radiators than it needs.
It may be possible to remove radiators in the core of the house and shift the others around, replacing larger radiators with smaller ones. Since radiators are modular, it is theoretically possible to downsize a radiator by removing sections; in practice, this is usually difficult to do without damaging them. In many parts of the country, used radiators are available cheaply, so you can potentially buy small radiators to replace large radiators; if you do so, be prepared to replace the shutoff valves as well, since they often won't match. Newly manufactured steam radiators are available as well.
In any case, you should work with a heating and cooling professional when downsizing your system. Your house's heating needs should be calculated using Manual J, and your radiators should be downsized appropriately. Match the new boiler to the remaining radiators. Note that balancing steam heating systems is more an art than a science; ideally, you will find a heating professional with experience in steam heating systems.
Steps a Good Contractor Should Take to Size Your System
Many factors affect a home's heating or cooling requirement, or "load." A good estimator will measure walls, ceilings, floor space, and windows to determine the room volumes, and will assess the R-value of the home's insulation, windows, and building materials. A close estimate of the building's air leakage is also necessary. A blower door test is the best way to measure air leakage.
A good estimate will also include an inspection of the size, condition of seals on joints and insulation, and location of the distribution ducts in forced air systems. The placement of supply and return registers should be appropriate for the system type and size.
The orientation of the house also affects heat gain and heat loss through windows. Overhangs can reduce solar gain through windows. Make sure the contractor uses the correct design for the outdoor temperature and humidity in your area. Using a higher summer design temperature results in oversizing air conditioners.
When the contractors are finished, get a copy of their calculations, assumptions, and the computer printout or finished worksheet. This is your only proof that they did the job right. To summarize, when designing your new heating and air conditioning system, the contractor you choose should do the following:
* Use a computer program or written calculation procedure to size the system
* Provide a written contract listing the main points of your installation and includes the results of the heating and cooling load calculation
* Give you a written warranty on equipment and workmanship
* Allow you to hold the final payment until you are satisfied with the new system.
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How Did I Do It Quiz Archives
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Spiral Duct Quiz
 I am working for a company which is doing commercial jobs as well, so I also have an expertise in this field.
What you can see in the picture is a 16” spiral duct that is 18’ long with four register boxes cut in it.
The questions for this quiz are:
1. What did I do to line up all four register boxes?
2. How did I calculate the distance between them, so they were set so perfectly centered?
3. Why did I seal all around the register boxes and every connection of the pipes with the duct sealer?
All three questions above are not difficult at all, but only if you just graduated from a High School! Otherwise, nobody even in my trade will meet this kind of issues too often, especially the first two. Therefore, if you have this kind of issue in front of you I can help. Price for my help is only $2.00.
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Leaking PVC Pipe Quiz
 Unfortunately it doesn’t matter how good you use a cleaner and PVC cement, but from time to time those pipes are leaking. The other week my boss sent me to do just that: to fix a leak in the PVC exhaust pipe.
When I arrived at the house I found a new guy hopelessly trying to fix the problem for at least an hour. He was applying layer after layer of the PVC cement on a leaking spot but it obviously didn’t work. When he saw me he said that he needs two couplings, two pieces of pipes and a new elbow to replace the leaking one. I said no, this is not how we fix such minor problems in our company. Nowadays it’s easier to fire your sorry ass then spend time and materials for nothing! So I’ve fixed that leak in less then 3 minutes!
The problem which was resolved in the quiz above can occur in any house at any time. If you want to save money and time instead of calling for an HVAC tech or plumber ($ 65.00 only for a knock at the door) you can fix it very easily by yourself. With the tools which you already have and materials that you can buy you can fix it for less than $10.
So, send me an e-mail with explanation of your issue and a picture of the leaking spot and if I can help you the price for my help will be only $2.00.
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Heat Runs in Floor Trusses Quiz
The other day I was running 6” heat runs in the floor trusses and it was a pretty difficult job. The distance between trusses was only 8” – 8 ½” and trusses themselves were made from 2 x 4 so they were 3 ½” wide. But anyway I’ve managed to run 30” long pieces of the pipes through!
How did I do it?
For this one I actually received most of the answers, but none of them were right! But here is one little trick which helped me to make the job done! So, for the price of only $2.00 I can explain how to do it.
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7” Duct Fabrication Quiz
 
Bundle of 6" pipes 7" pipe 4' long
Recently my boss sent me to do a minor repair in Ann Arbor, MI. He called on my telephone and said that 6” round pipe in a house that we finished two month ago was smashed and I had to replaced it. He asked if I have any materials, I checked it out and found a bundle of 6” pipes in my truck. One hour later and 45 miles away from any supply house I found out that actually it was 7” pipe! I came back to my truck and found a piece of 7" pipe 4’ long, but I need a five footer! After using several words one of them four letters long toward the "fucking" superintendent who couldn’t distinguish between 6” and 7” pipes I made 15” long piece of 7” pipe from 6” pipe in less than a minute!
How did I do it?
An answer for this quiz would be very useful for DIY-er and also for anyone working in the ductwork installation field. A simple knowledge how to reduce or increase size of the duct can save you some time and help you to finish a job on time! So, for the price of only $2.00 I can explain how to do that.
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Broken Elbow Quiz
Last week I was working in the basement doing heat runs, when I found out that I’m out of 6” elbows. After searching in boxes I found a couple of them but they were broken. It was what I need! In matter of seconds I fixed them and finished the job!
How did I do it?
Fixing a broken elbow is a very easy task! But nobody knows how to do that! Why? Because nobody cares! The tin knocker will send it back to the shop or just throw them away. But if you are a self-employed contractor you probably don’t have too much time to waste! So, for the price of only $2.00 I can explain how to fix a broken elbow!
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Offset Calculation Quiz
Some of the HVAC installers who are working in this field for some time know the formula:
 M = ..............
Where: M – How much you have to miter a duct.
O – How much you want to off-set a duct.
W – Width of the duct.
L – Length of the duct.
But I believe almost none of them know how to calculate M if you are dealing with the full length of a duct as you can see it in the picture. The problem here is: when you cut M from the duct it becomes shorter and it doesn’t reach to the point indicated by figure O.
In order to figure it out you are not supposed to be a super tin knocker, anyone who has C and higher - for geometry is able to solve this problem. I’ve resolved it in 5 minutes!
An answer for this puzzle appears to be a very difficult one! So far, I didn’t receive any answers at all! You can do a research on the web as did I and find a very strange explanation with tons of geometrical formulas, which even I with my college degree couldn’t understand! Moreover, I can’t understand how an ordinary tin knocker can use those stupid formulas in the field anyway! So, for the price of only $ 2.00 I can explain how to do it. |
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Jumper Calculation Quiz
 What you can see in the picture is a “jumper”. When I ran a pipe from the joist space to your right to the joist space to your left, I didn't even have a pipe there (in the joist space to the left). But anyway I have managed to make the right measurement and placed a pipe in the middle of the joist space.
How did I do it?
For a reason unknown a jumper always was the most difficult part of the trade, check for example this one out, and from my experience I know that not too many tin knockers know how to calculate a jumper the right way. So, for the price of only $2.00 I can explain how to do it.
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6” Pipe Quiz
 Recently I was working in the basement, doing heat runs, and probably I was thinking too much on how to improve my website! As a result I put together too many six inch pipes – nine of them. When the job was done to my surprise I've discovered nine extra pipes all over the basement. I said to myself – it’s not a big deal! In less than a minute I took them all apart and put them back in a bundle!
How did I do it?
This one is funny! Recently on one of the Forum websites one of the visitors asked how to unsnap a pipe. Any of you should have read the answers, one of the EXPERTS  even recommended to use a grinder to cut the pipe in pieces, another suggested just throw them away and buy some new ones for only $7 a piece, fucking idiot!!! But you will be just astonished on how incredibly easy it actually is to unsnap a pipe! So, for the price of only $2.00 I can explain how to do it.
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Pipe Length Calculation Quiz
As you probably know in order to connect two pipes or fittings together all pipes and fittings must be crimped. The length of the crimp is 1 ½”. As you can see it in the picture the pipe is situated between two elbows. But let's say the distance between those elbows were longer than you see in the picture, and it would be 92 ½”. So, how long should be an additional piece of pipe if the first one has a standard length of 60”. I've resolved this issue in just 5 minutes!
How Did I Do It?
Answer for this quiz has its value mostly for the professional installers. If you make a measurement and the distance is bigger than the length of one whole pipe (60”, 30”), some of you don’t know what to do next! So, for the price of only $2.00 I can explain how to do it.
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Dent Elimination Quiz
 What you see in the picture is a dent on the Flat 90*. I wouldn’t say it’s a big deal, but in some applications this dent can make a popping noise. Also if you leave a duct with this kind of damage on it, it looks sloppy and unprofessional. So I fixed it in less than 1 minute.
How Did I Do It?
I’ve received this email some time ago: “I had my mom (the only one small enough) get behind my furnace to help me run a wire. In the process she had to squeeze against the return. I believe she may have popped it in. Now, when it starts and finishes its cycle the return pops.” If you are having this kind of help from your relatives or maybe you neighbor 6’6” hit your duct with his head you may need the answer for this quiz.
So, if you have this kind of issue in front of you I can help. Price for my help is only $2.00.
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Blocker Installation Quiz
 It’s always a fun to talk to a new guy when he got hired in your company! Usually he starts to tell you a story on how incredibly good he is and how fast he can do any kind of ductwork installation work, while, let’s say, doing a piece-work. What he is expecting from you is a loud WOW!!! But I always keep “wows” as a last resort until the actual job is done.
This time around when a newbie started to do blockers installation he spent 6 minutes for each. I looked at him and said that during this time I could got of 3 blockers done and I’ve showed him the technique. So, now I was getting a huge WOW!!!
So, for the price of only $2.00 I can explain how to do it.
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Reducer Quiz
The other day I was working in an old commercial building replacing old heat runs. Almost all of them were 9” round pipes and fittings, and my task was to replace them with 8” fittings, pipes and diffusers. At the same time my boss told me that I have to save as much old stuff as possible in order to help him to save some money. I‘ve been told that he will buy some From 9” to 8” Reducers which will terminate every 9” heat run I am able to save, for the 8” flex. When it comes to the time to give me those reducers my boss found out that there were no such things available at all! There wasn’t any supply house in the entire Detroit area carrying things like that!
 He was lucky enough to find a few 9” round caps and 8” collars at the shop to make the reducers, but for the rest of the 9” heat runs he come up with another bright idea: replace them with 8” collars, pipes and fittings! As a good employee I’ve said – all right, but for myself I’ve said – no way!
I’m not crazy to take all the 9” Take-offs off, patch the holes, cut an 8" collars in and run the pipes with fittings when all of it is already done and I need just a few lousy reducers! Luckily I found some 9” pipes and made the reducers in no time!
How Did I Do It?
If you are a self-employed contructor or thinking about ductwork installation seriously you may need to know how to make field-made reducer (I’m actually know two ways of making them). At first try to find the right answer or for the price of only $2.00 I'll explain how you can do it.
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Fix a Heat Run Quiz
 When you are doing remodeling there is always a possibility that people of the one trade destroy or break something of the other!
As you can see in the picture the guys who were running the vacuum cleaner line broke a 7" Take-off.
When superintendent asked me if I can fix that I've said no: I don’t have a 7” Take-off to replace the broken one, I can’t unscrew and pull out the Flat-Oval 90*, because it's inside the upstairs wall, I don’t have enough 7” pipes to replace the smashed one and of course I don’t have enough time to fix all this BS.
Are you seriously thinking it was me? Of course not! In 20 minutes I’ve fixed everything, cleaned up the job and went home!
How Did I Do It?
I don’t know if you paid attention, but in order to fix this heat run I've used the techniques taken from two previous quizzes plus an additional one. If you think that you need to know how to fix this heat run pay me $2.00 by the “BuyNow” button below and I’ll let you know what should be done!
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Tee Quiz
 What you can see in the picture is an 8”- 8”- 8” Tee. This kind of Tees could be pretty expensive, because there is no high demand for the fittings like this. Furthermore, if you need a different kind of Tee, let’s say 8”- 6”- 8”, or 8”- 7”- 8” tees they could be out of stock or you might just forget to buy one. There is a very simple technique on how to make any type of tees. I usually make it in less than 10 minutes!
How Did I Do It?
If you are a self-employed contractor or if you are thinking about ductwork installation seriously you may need to know how to make a field made Tee. At first try to find the right answer or for the price of only $2.00 I can explain how to do it.
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Drive Connection Trick
 When you are making a drive connection, it is necessary to bend a drive at the top and at the bottom. It serves two purposes:
- Reduces the duct leakage
- Hold a drive in place
However, sometimes it is virtually impossible to do, just look in the picture. Therefore, there are only a few ways how to keep this drive in place and only one of them is the right one. Please let me know if you know the right way of doing that!
P.S.
This one is very simple, but I bet that none of you have the right answer! Furthermore, I believe that only my boss and I know how to do that, but for the very low price of only $2.00 I can explain to you what to do!
Just click the “BuyNow” button below and the “Drive Connection Trick” is going to be yours!!!
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16 How Did I Do It Quizzes $8.00
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Tags
Take apart hvac ductwork, I dented my duct work,
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