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                                Air Conditioner Repair


1. Refrigeration gauge set
2. Zeroing the refrigeration gauge set
3. Saturation demonstration
4. How to do a pre season refrigeration gauge set leak check
5. How and when to replace air conditioner gauge set hose gaskets
6. How to install and bleed the air conditioner gauge set
7. Air Conditioning condenser leak repair
8. Air conditioning service valve
9. How to find air conditioning service valve leaks
10. How does the heat pump reversing valve work
11. A/C filter-drier filled with garbage
12. TXV construction explained
13. How to stop leaks from air conditioner valves and caps
14. Replacing the o rings on leaking HVAC service valves
15. Meters for HVAC and electric overview part 1
16. Meters for HVAC part 2 analog Multimeters
17. Meters for HVAC part 3 manual ranging Multimeter
18. How to service the condenser fan
19. How to fix condenser fan out of balance
20. How to fix fan blade alignment
21. How to pull a condenser fan blade
22. How to test capacitors and troubleshoot for HVAC
23. How to check the capacitor with an analog meter
24. The myth of the run cap

Proper Subcooling Charging Techniques

Indoor Coil Corrosion

1. The contacts of the HVAC contactor part 1 of the contactor series
2. How to test for overheated HVAC equipment contactors and terminals with infrared. Contactors part 2
3. The HVAC contactor chattering and hang ups part 3
4. HVAC contactor configuration part 4
5. HVAC contactor ratings part 5
6. How the HVAC contactor is actuated. Part 6
7. Troubleshooting and testing the HVAC contactor Part 7
8. How the single pole double throw switch works at the relay
9. How to check for power through the air conditioner disconnect
10. How to check amp draw of air conditioning compressor
11. What is normal air conditioner amp draw?
12. How to check the windings of a refrigeration compressor
13. Air conditioner outdoor coil repair
14. Unbrazing the cap tube on air conditioners
15. Oxygen and acetylene regulator setup
16. How to diagnose a locked rotor compressor
17. How to set the oxy acetylene regulators
18. How to use the oxy acetylene torch tip
19. How to braze copper with sil-phos brazing rod
20. Shut down procedure for the oxy acetylene torch
21. Running nitrogen thru the lines while brazing
22. Brazing with nitrogen thru the lines
23. How to pressure test the A/C unit. Part 1
24. A/C high pressure test part 2
25. High pressure test: service valves leaking by. Part 3


Is it time to replace your Air Conditioner? Fill out a Repair or Replace Report Card 

How Air Conditioners Work

Air conditioners employ the same operating principles and basic components as your home refrigerator. Refrigerators use energy (usually electricity) to transfer heat from the cool interior of the refrigerator to the relatively warm surroundings of your home; likewise, an air conditioner uses energy to transfer heat from the interior of your home to the relatively warm outside environment.
An air conditioner cools your home with a cold indoor coil called the evaporator. The condenser, a hot outdoor coil, releases the collected heat outside. The evaporator and condenser coils are serpentine tubing surrounded by aluminum fins. This tubing is usually made of copper.
A pump, called the compressor, moves a heat transfer fluid (or refrigerant) between the evaporator and the condenser. The pump forces the refrigerant through the circuit of tubing and fins in the coils.
The liquid refrigerant evaporates in the indoor evaporator coil, pulling heat out of indoor air and thereby cooling your home. The hot refrigerant gas is pumped outdoors into the condenser where it reverts back to a liquid, giving up its heat to the outside air flowing over the condenser's metal tubing and fins.
Throughout the second half of the 20th century, nearly all air conditioners used chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) as their refrigerant, but because these chemicals are damaging to Earth's ozone layer, CFC production stopped in the United States in 1995. Nearly all air conditioning systems now employ halogenated chlorofluorocarbons (HCFCs) as a refrigerant, but these are also being gradually phased out, with most production and importing stopped by 2020 and all production and importing stopped by 2030.
Production and importing of today's main refrigerant for home air conditioners, HCFC-22 (also called R-22), will begin to be phased out in 2010 and will stop entirely by 2020. However, HCFC-22 is expected to be available for many years as it is recovered from old systems that are taken out of service. As these refrigerants are phased out, ozone-safe hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs) are expected to dominate the market, as well as alternative refrigerants such as ammonia.

Maintaining Your Air Conditioner
An air conditioner's filters, coils, and fins require regular maintenance for the unit to function effectively and efficiently throughout its years of service. Neglecting necessary maintenance ensures a steady decline in air conditioning performance while energy use steadily increases.
Air Conditioner Filters
The most important maintenance task that will ensure the efficiency of your air conditioner is to routinely replace or clean its filters. Clogged, dirty filters block normal air flow and reduce a system's efficiency significantly. With normal air flow obstructed, air that bypasses the filter may carry dirt directly into the evaporator coil and impair the coil's heat-absorbing capacity. Keeping the filter clean can lower your air conditioner's energy consumption by 5%–15%.
For central air conditioners, filters are generally located somewhere along the return duct's length. Common filter locations are in walls, ceilings, furnaces, or in the air conditioner itself. Room air conditioners have a filter mounted in the grill that faces into the room.
Some types of filters are reusable; others must be replaced. They are available in a variety of types and efficiencies. Clean or replace your air conditioning system's filter or filters every month or two during the cooling season. Filters may need more frequent attention if the air conditioner is in constant use, is subjected to dusty conditions, or you have fur-bearing pets in the house.
Air Conditioner Coils
The air conditioner's evaporator coil and condenser coil collect dirt over their months and years of service. A clean filter prevents the evaporator coil from soiling quickly. In time, however, the evaporator coil will still collect dirt. This dirt reduces air flow and insulates the coil, reducing its ability to absorb heat. To avoid this problem, check your evaporator coil every year and clean it as necessary.
Outdoor condenser coils can also become very dirty if the outdoor environment is dusty or if there is foliage nearby. You can easily see the condenser coil and notice if dirt is collecting on its fins.
You should minimize dirt and debris near the condenser unit. Your dryer vents, falling leaves, and lawn mower are all potential sources of dirt and debris. Cleaning the area around the coil, removing any debris, and trimming foliage back at least 2 feet (0.6 meters) allow for adequate air flow around the condenser.
Coil Fins
The aluminum fins on evaporator and condenser coils are easily bent and can block air flow through the coil. Air conditioning wholesalers sell a tool called a "fin comb" that will comb these fins back into nearly original condition.
Condensate Drains
Occasionally pass a stiff wire through the unit's drain channels. Clogged drain channels prevent a unit from reducing humidity, and the resulting excess moisture may discolor walls or carpet.
Window Seals for Room Air Conditioners
At the start of each cooling season, inspect the seal between the air conditioner and the window frame to ensure it makes contact with the unit's metal case. Moisture can damage this seal, allowing cool air to escape from your house.
Preparing for Winter
In the winter, either cover your room air conditioner or remove and store it. Covering the outdoor unit of a central air conditioner will protect the unit from winter weather and debris.

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